Monday, June 15, 2009

Introduction

All entries for this blog, Brazil and Uruguay: Spring 2009 Study Abroad, were originally published on the Student Life blog for The Evergreen State College. I have reposted them here in chronological order. I included entries about planning the trip beginning in February, and the first few do not include photos. However, this is primarily a photo blog, so hopefully you won't get too bored with text. The blog concludes with photos from my graduation from The Evergreen State College.

Brazil and Uruguay: Spring 2009 Study Abroad
by Holly Winters

The powers that be...

Originally published February 23, 2009



Last week I began to realize that besides homework, almost everything I do that requires large amounts of effort is for something in the future. I'm so extremely future-oriented that sometimes it leaves me feeling like what is it all for right now? I have this driving tunnel vision and often I find myself not participating in my life because I'm always too busy planning it. And if I am not planning something, I am waiting waiting waiting for what I have planned so meticulously to finally come to fruition. I would like to reconcile this and find a bit more balance between what is going on now and what I am planning for in the future.

Right now I am banking on this reconciliation to occur in Brazil. I have been planning this trip for over a year, and I cannot believe that I am finally leaving in less than four weeks! Last week I submitted the first draft of my academic contract to my sponsoring faculty, and now I am waiting for his feedback so that I can submit it to the dean for approval. I am also still waiting for my Brazilian travel visa to arrive, and if it doesn't come this week I am going to begin to worry.

I am also waiting to hear about my graduate school applications. Whether or not I am accepted into a Masters program will determine everything about my future for the next couple of years. It's so difficult to just relax and be patient. If I don't get into a program, I have already started formulating Plans B, C, D and even E. Everything is contingent on one decision that is completely out of my control! I'm sure my fate will be revealed to me shortly, or at least hopefully before I leave for Brazil!

I also have to start thinking about graduation in June. There is a bit of paperwork involved for that, all of which has to get done before I leave in March. Better start planning that too... It never ends.

Just a tourist

Originally published Februray 26, 2009



I can't believe after this week there are only two weeks left in the quarter! Of course, now I am beginning to experience the obligatory end-of-quarter sense of urgency about my final research project. This quarter I am researching the fantastic little country of Uruguay, specifically about how the people in exile during the time of military dictatorship were able to organize and practice activism from outside the country's borders. The first country to experience a military coup during this dark era in South American history was Uruguay, which caused a mass exodus of politically left-leaning people to Argentina and Chile. People thought they were out of danger since they left Uruguay, but then the military coups began to sweep over the entire Southern Cone, and Uruguayan exiles were persecuted due to Operation Condor.

This topic is incredibly relevant to me since I will be studying abroad in Uruguay next quarter. My trip includes five weeks in Brazil, one week in Argentina and one month traveling throughout Uruguay and Southern Brazil. In all of my Latin American Studies classes, Uruguay has always been passed over, but I know from previous visits to the tiny country that there is a rich culture and history that should not be ignored!

Yesterday I received my passport with the addition of a Brazilian tourist visa! I didn't need a student visa since I am doing an independent contract and not actually studying in a university there. My Portuguese classes are arranged through a private language school and not a public university, so as far as Brazil is concerned I'm just a tourist. I'm so relieved to have everything set up! Now I'm just waiting for March 21 to arrive...

I'm going to grad school!

Originally published March 3, 2009



Yesterday I received an email from the University of Washington Bothell informing me that I have been accepted to the Master of Arts in Cultural Studies (MACS) program starting in the fall! I'm going to grad school! It is such a relief to know that I have a plan for the next couple of years. Maybe now I can relax and stop planning so much... if only for a little while. I have already decided that I will eventually be getting my PhD, and it's just nice to know that I really am on track.

This week in my Latin American Studies seminar we are focusing on issues at the border and the immigrant experience. This is a topic I am already very familiar with, as I have made immigration advocacy and reform a key part of my undergraduate academic research. Today we had a guest speaker who came to present to our class about her experiences conducting research about immigrants from other countries in Central America at Mexico's southern border, or la otra frontera. It really opened my eyes about the complexity of border politics. People who come from Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua and Guatemala all have to cross into Mexico before they can get to the United States, and the dangers they encounter there are far more hazardous and violent than those that await them at the U.S.-Mexico border, if you can believe that. It's like there is no end to the level of monstrosity that human beings are able to achieve.

Tomorrow I have a test in my Portuguese class. I am shocked that the final exam is one week from Friday, and then the quarter is over! I'll be on a plane headed south in less than three weeks. Ok, I should get busy. I already feel the anxiety pains creeping up from my gut...

To the Southern Cone already, por favor!

Originally published March 5, 2009



I have the busiest week ever coming up and it already started today. Tomorrow I am coming to Evergreen to collect signatures from the International Studies Adviser, the Dean of International Programs, and Registration and Records for my Individual Study Contract next quarter. The process for an ILC is very thorough, and it will be nice to have it finally completed. Plus, I am really looking forward to seeing all of my Greener friends. I miss the forest so much now that I'm living back in the city.

On Saturday we are throwing a fundraiser for our group volunteering with No More Deaths at the border. I took the night off work to have some fun and participate in the festivities. On Sunday I have to work, then afterward I have an extra rehearsal with the Women's Choir, another dress rehearsal on Monday evening, then the performance on Tuesday evening. I also have to turn my research project outline into an actual draft of my paper between now and next Thursday so that I can plan my presentation to give in class in one week. I also have two house guests this weekend and have to study for my Portuguese final that is one week from Friday. If a person could place my level of anxiety on a measurable scale, I think I would still be off the charts.

One small relief is that I just learned a friend of mine will be flying to Brazil to meet me in Rio de Janeiro at the end of April! I visited her in Europe a few years ago when she was studying abroad, and now she's going to come and visit me. My intensive Portuguese program ends on April 24, and that means I have to leave my host family's home the following day. I will leave Salvador on Saturday the 25th and my friend is going to meet me in Rio the next day on Sunday! While I am perfectly capable of traveling alone, I think it will be safer and more fun to have a travel buddy. She's also going to visit Buenos Aires, Argentina and Montevideo, Uruguay with me before she flies back to the States. She is my oldest friend and fellow world traveler, and I cannot wait to visit three of the most interesting cities in the entire Southern Cone with her.

Sunshine on Evergreen

Originally published March 6, 2009



My contract has been approved! My study abroad is official in every way.

What a great day at Evergreen! So great, in fact, that I decided to test out my new camera right here on campus. Enjoy!

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The ladies from the Evergreen crew team offering up some baked goods to raise money!

Brazil!

Originally published March 29, 2009



After spending a week camping in the rugged Arizona desert I have finally arrived in Salvador da Bahia, Brazil! My experience volunteering with No More Deaths providing humanitarian aid at the border was simply amazing. The coordinators of the Alternative Spring Break made it clear over and over again that our service was appreciated and I truly felt like I was making a difference as I was hauling gallons of water through the harsh terrain. I will be posting a more thorough description of how I passed my time there in the very near future, along with photos, so check back soon.

I arrived in Brazil this morning without any problems, aside from having to be rerouted when the first leg of my flight out of Tucson was canceled. Luckily I was able to check my email at the airport in Tucson before I left because my host family placement was changed two days ago... for the third time! I was completely out of touch with the world in the desert and I just could have seen myself showing up at the wrong door when I arrived in Salvador. But no worries, everything worked out and I am extremely pleased with my host family placement!

Tomorrow begins spring quarter, along with my intensive Portuguese classes. My hosts tell me that I already speak Portuguese very well, although I would say I´m mostly just faking it by filling in the gaps with Spanish. I spent the early morning wandering around my new neighborhood and am now experiencing tropical heat for the first time. This is hot like I have never ever felt in my life! I think I should just attach a water IV to my body because I sweat more this morning than I did all of last year. Did I mention it´s hot?

Now it´s time to unpack and have a nap. Até logo!

My week with No More Deaths

Originally published April 2, 2009



On Saturday, March 21, 2009, college students from all over the country descended upon Tucson, Arizona to volunteer with No More Deaths for Alternative Spring Break. I was the sole representative from The Evergreen State College and I traveled with a group of 14 other students from the University of Washington. We met at Southside Presbyterian Church where first they fed us, and then we began our training as humanitarian aid volunteers in the Arizona desert.
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José, Kai, Heiu and Silverio from UW

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James, Danielle, Erika and Brianna from UW

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Karina, our amazing group coordinator

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Danielle

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Silverio and José

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Rachael and me -- No más muertes!

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Heading into the sanctuary to begin our training

We were given a volunteer survival packet that we were instructed to carry around with us at all times while on patrol in the desert. It contained all the various contact information for the directors of No More Deaths, along with specific dos and don'ts for various situations regarding contact with migrants and/or border patrol agents. Any time NMD volunteers encounter Border Patrol agents with migrants in custody, it is protocol to approach the situation to assess if there are migrants in need of medical care, water and food. No More Deaths also documents reported cases of human rights abuses from migrants while in custody of Border Patrol. This is part of a larger effort to enact reform at all levels of immigration policy execution.

The next morning on Sunday we continued our training. We were guided in a conversation about privilege, and the reasons why migrants come here in search of work. We discussed the political and economic factors that cause major instability in Central America, and how the United States plays a huge role in how those policies are carried out. We talked about how NAFTA only serves the agenda of the U.S., and it was brought to our attention that security along the U.S.-Mexico border tightened in 1994, the same year NAFTA came into existence. This demonstrates that the United States government absolutely KNEW it would increase the economic inequality, and actually anticipated an increase in the flow of undocumented immigrants. That's when we started to build walls.

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Danielle and Karina

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Liz!

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Topographic map detailing many of the known migrant trails used to cross the border through the desert. As you can see, there are mountain ranges that make for an extremely dangerous journey by foot that would take about five days for someone in very good health.

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Each red dot on this map indicates where a migrant was found dead in the Arizona desert between 2001 and 2007. It is estimated that for every body found, there are ten more deaths whose remains will not be discovered.

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The original founders of the Sanctuary Movement in the 1980s. The Sanctuary Movement was a coalition of churches that offered shelter to refugees who fled Central America in order to avoid persecution from U.S.-backed government oppression. The U.S. could not recognize these migrants as political refugees because that would require taking responsibility for repressive conditions from which these people were fleeing.

After additional training on basic first aid and the importance of using common sense in the desert (drink water, drink water, drink water), we were shown a presentation by the Sierra Club about the environmental devastation being caused by the construction of the border wall. The Bush Administration used the Patriot Act to overturn 35 federal laws that protected wildlife habitat throughout the borderlands. Just flat-out broke the law in an effort to prove how easily we can waste colossal amounts of money. Never mind that it only slows migrants down by an average of five minutes, but the wall serves to destroy the lives of endangered species that are not found in other regions of the world. Migratory animals are often separated from water sources and cannot find food because they are not able to climb the walls designed to keep the people out. It makes me furious.

Sunday afternoon we packed up our cars and headed out to the camp located outside of Arivaca.

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The Washington Group

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We woke up at 6:30am each morning, ate breakfast, then took off on patrols in groups of 4 or 5 to deliver water, food and offer medical assistance in the event that we encounter migrants. None of my patrols encountered migrants, but we did encounter border patrol one day. No More Deaths is well-known and is pretty much left alone by Border Patrol under the guise that humanitarian aid is never crime. Our hikes typically lasted around 5 or 6 hours, and we used 4-wheel drive vehicles to drive out to weigh points mapped by GPS. The Arizona desert is beautiful, simply marvelous.

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Arizona is a popular destination for bird-watching. This a Vermilion flycatcher.

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Using GPS is fun!

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Our patrol leader, Gene, took us to a shrine that had been erected in honor of Josseline Janiletha Hernandez Quinteros, a 14-year-old girl who was found dead after having been abandoned by her group because she was unable to keep up with them.

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"When you feel that the path has become hard and difficult, don't turn back, continue onward and search for the help of God. We will carry you in our hearts forever."

Visiting Josseline's shrine invoked a lot of emotion for me, and her family had given Gene a photo of Josseline that was taken right before she left to cross the border. Later we encountered a migrant rest area that was obviously heavily trafficked.

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Towards the end of our patrol we ascended a steep and rocky cliff that provided an amazing panoramic view of the desert terrain.

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Rachael, me and our cactus friend

The next day our patrol went to a different area.

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Brianna, riding in the back of the truck to our patrol weigh point

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Rachel

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Dominic

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There are tons of free range cattle wandering in the desert, and these are their watering holes. They are filthy cesspools of cow dung, microbes and other really bad bacteria that should absolutely not be ingested by human beings.

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Unfortunately, people do drink from them when they are on the verge of death from thirst. This only causes further dehydration from diarrhea and vomiting, making death all the more likely. We placed additional gallons of pure water here in case anyone might be compelled to drink from it.

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Who knew the desert could be so beautiful?

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On this patrol we encountered a car that had been completely stripped and was riddled with bullet holes. Very strange.

On Wednesday we made a trip to Nogales, Mexico. There is a NMD aid station there to receive migrants who have been recently deported.

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The border wall at Nogales. There are holes in the chain link fence where migrants will try to hop the border during BP shift changes.

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We served food to recently deported migrants here, at a place called the Comedor. Deported migrants are able to have two meals a day for two weeks after being deported, and must show their deportation papers in order to enter.

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After serving meals and conversing with migrants, we head back to camp in the States.

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The next day we went on another patrol.

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Me, Karina and Rachael

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Another cow pond

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Can you imagine having no other option than to drink this filthy water? It makes my stomach hurt just thinking about it...

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On Thursday we took a trip to Sasabe, Arizona, a tiny little town right on the border, in order to see this section of the border wall up close.

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If you look a little bit into the distance, you can see the mountains. This is where the wall stops. So, why not just walk around? Right... Another colossal waste of our tax dollars.

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Border Patrol wanted to know what we were doing there. Then they took off to patrol the border to make sure we wouldn't be "harassed by angry Mexicans".

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My experience with No More Deaths was amazing. I learned so much about border politics and human migration. I was challenged physically, mentally and emotionally during my week volunteering. I plan on returning next year to volunteer again. In an ideal world, this organization will not exist for much longer. Visit No More Deaths online at www.nomoredeaths.org to find out more information about this extraordinary humanitarian aid organization.